Lutherie Tools List – What You Need To Build A Guitar (or Bass)

Supporting the instrument’s neck while neck/fretboard/nut/fret work is performed.

For preventing surface scratches on an instrument whilst work is being performed.

For removing and adjusting hardware.

A multi-purpose socket wrench designed for fitment in truss rod slots / common truss rod bolt sizes.

Various sizes needed to accommodate guitar strings as well as larger bass & classical guitar string sizes.

Compressed silicone-based oil for electronic parts.

Terpene-based oil for hydrating hardwood.

Useful for gripping hardware (ex. Leatherman).

For clipping excess string after a change. You can find string cutter/string winder combination tools.

For observing fret alignment / relief during setup, as well as noting worn fret areas. Also useful for ensuring radiused fretboards are even.

For cleaning & polishing frets without contacting the fretboard.

For cleaning & polishing guitar bodies/necks.

For testing electronics functions and diagnosing issues.

Often used for removing light surface scratches in car finish – used for polishing bone nuts.

These are used for leveling or creating slotted seats to fit the nuts steadfast. There are multiple sizes to fit different nut thickness standards: Fender (1/8″), Gibson (3/16″), etc.

For finishing recently dressed frets (forms the top of the fret profile). Many options available, results may vary.

Small files used to round off hard fret-end angles (after using the beveling file, particularly).

Can be used instead of radius sanding blocks / straight bars (with stick-on sandpaper) for leveling frets or the fretboard. It should be noted that lengths of these files is limited compared to that of a straight bar or radius block.

Similar in shape to the Fret-Pulling Pliers, these must be heavy duty and capable of cutting stainless steel frets without becoming divoted. Anything less than steel is not going to last. The closer you can get to the board whilst clipping, the less end-filing work needs to be done.

There are a few methods for radiusing the fretwire, including some home-made options. It is best to under-size the fret wire slightly so when frets are being installed, it is easier to confirm they are fixed in place properly. It also helps them wedge into a fixed position.

Used for checking the depth of fret slots. Useful for re-fretting jobs when new wire tang height may differ and slot depths need to be increased.

A specialized saw for cutting fret slots deeper/wider without cutting through binding (or filled/un-slotted ends). Should be used in conjunction with the fret slot depth gauge.

There are a number of options for creating your fret slots: hand saws (also can be used in conjunction with mitre boxes & notched fret slot templates, like StewMac’s system), saw blades, router bits (CNC or manual jig systems), or a combination of both. Whatever system you go with, you should know the recommended width of the fret slot for the wire you’re using. 0.23″ is StewMac’s standard size, and therefore other manufacturers tend to follow suit. Regarding depth, it should be a tiny bit deeper than the tang height itself.

Wood preparation – you need to size your wood before any body / neck shaping can be done. Different tools provide different solutions, but it’s important to note that there are always ways around the shortcomings of one tool that may not necessitate the other. That being said, the ability to square your wood and center your cuts to a fine degree can be particularly useful for laminates and bookmatching.

Wood preparation – similar to a planer, the purpose here is to remove a finer plane of wood using a spinning sanding drum.

Wood shaping – once your parts are drawn on your cut, thicknessed, and glued parts, you can use a jig saw to remove most of the excess wood before perfecting the shape with sanders and rasps.

Wood shaping – great for post holes, hardware drill points, and tuning machine holes. A piece can also be added to turn your drill press into a drum sander for performing similar work to the belt sander.

Wood shaping – the rasp is one of the most primitive carpentry tools, and also one of the most versatile. It’s a simple burred device (like a file with larger teeth) that can be used for shaping wood by hand. There are varying degrees of tooth size, the smaller they are means the less material will be removed, making it more suitable for finer work with less sanding afterward. There are also varied shapes – commonly you’ll find them flat, convex, or as a rounded diameter. Each has its purpose and deserves a place in your shop – particularly useful for handmade carved tops and neck shaping.

Wood shaping – a handheld disc sander with a variety of grits can be used for completing your shapes and prepping for finish. It’s particularly useful for bodies. Coupled with a flexible foam pad, a disc sander can be used for finishing the contours on a roughed out carved top.